Should I Pay Off This Mortgage Loan?

I just heard a personal finance expert recommend paying off a mortgage that has 14 years remaining. Here are the parameters of the 30-year fixed rate loan:

Debt Present Value:   229,880
Remaining Term:           168  (16 years paid, 14 years left)
Annual Interest Rate:     6.6% (fixed over 30 years)
Monthly Debt Service:  -2,100  (principal + interest)
Annual Debt Service:  -25,200

From these parameters, I can work backwards to find the original loan amount of 328,814. There was no mention of the original Equity to Value (ETV), so we’ll guess that it was 20%. Therefore, the original property value is 411018=328814÷80%. Thus, the current Loan to Value (LTV) ratio is 55.93%=229880÷411018, assuming no change in the current property value.

The owner has enough cash in a savings account to pay off this mortgage loan. The savings account has an annual interest rate of about 1% (practically nothing). The “expert” recommends paying off the mortgage loan, because that effectively “earns” 6.6% on their money by diverting the 2,100 monthly payment into a retirement account that is invested in a mutual fund to earn a higher yield. Most mutual funds have not yielded more than 6% in recent years, and some of have lost principal.

Paying off the mortgage loan saves 2,100 per month and gives peace of mind that the owner has greatly reduced the risk of foreclosure in event of income loss. The owner must still pay property tax and insurance to protect the investment. Investing 2,100 per month into a retirement account (mutual fund) is probably a low yield choice and has the risk of loss in a down stock market.

I would recommend seriously considering not paying off the mortgage loan, and instead investing the 229,880 as a leveraged investment in income property. The cost and structure of the financing parameters are:

1st position debt:

Annual Interest Rate: 5.00%
Loan to Value Ratio: 70.00%
Amortization Term:     300

2nd position preferred equity:

Annual Yield:          9.00%
Loan to Value Ratio: 20.00%
Amortization Term:     300

3rd position common equity:

Annual Yield:          60.00%
Equity to Value Ratio: 10.00%

The Debt Coverage Ratio (DCR) on the senior tranches is 1.8665. The blended Annual Debt Constant (ADC) is 7.6940%. The blended Loan to Value (LTV) ratio is 90.00%. The Capitalization Rate (CAP) is 12.9246%. The Gross Return on Equity (ROE) is 60.00%.

I ran the numbers three ways:

1. An equity member of a syndication on a stabilized income property.

Investing the 229,880 as a common equity member with an annual yield of 20% will earn about 45,976 per year or 3,831 per month.

2. A private lender for the common equity of a syndication project.

Investing the 229,880 as a junior loan with an annual interest rate of 15.8540% fully amortized over 120 periodic payments (10 years) will return a total of 459,760, including original principal.

3. A common equity investment on a stabilized income property.

Investing the 229,880 as a common equity investment of 178,796 plus other costs of 51,084 will earn 107,278 per year. This generates the highest return and requires the buyer to manage the income property, or to hire a professional management company. The investor must also find the property, negotiate the contract, conduct due diligence, and obtain financing for the senior tranches.

In the scenarios 1 and 2, the investor merely provides the financing and the syndicator handles all of the project management, including finding the property, negotiating the contract, due diligence, and obtaining the senior tranche financing.

Any of the above scenarios provides a much higher return on the investment than just paying off the residential mortgage loan. The return at 20.00% yield is enough to cover the residential mortgage loan with over 1,000 extra income. In scenarios 1 and 3, the investor also benefits from principal amortization (paid by the tenants).

Considering the current low LTV on the residential mortgage loan, I would also suggest refinancing the loan. As of this writing, 15-year fixed rate owner-occupied loans at under 3.50% annual interest. That would lower the monthly payment and when combined with the cash flow from the income property, the investor has increased the overall return on investment.

Check my information product, “Introduction to Income Valuation and Syndication” to learn more about leveraging your money or Other People’s Money (OPM) to buy income property.

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Product Update: Pro-Forma Stabilized Income Property Mail Merge Tutorial2

I just updated the ProFormaStabilized.xlsm spreadsheet, added a new mail merge template, and added another video tutorial for the mail merge templates to my Introduction to Income Valuation and Syndication product.

You can view the YouTube.com version of the video tutorial here.

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Product Update: Calculating Capitalization Rate

I just added a new video tutorial “Calculating Capitalization Rate” to my information product “Introduction to Income Valuation and Syndication“. You can see the YouTube.com version here.

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Starting Your Own Syndication Business

I just posted a short article about starting your own real estate syndication business when you have no prior experience managing other people’s money or assets. You can read it by clicking here.

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Product Update: Pro-Forma Stabilized Income Property Mail Merge Tutorial1

I just updated the ProFormaStabilized.xlsm spreadsheet, added 4 mail merge templates, and added a video tutorial for the mail merge templates to my Introduction to Income Valuation and Syndication product.

You can view the YouTube.com version of the video tutorial here.

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Product Update: Sample Analysis1 video tutorial

I added a new “Sample Analysis1″ video tutorial to the Property Analysis Worksheet Short Form product. You can watch the YouTube version here.

I get so many emails from amateur wholesalers who don’t know what they’re doing. They are not operating their business like a professional. I run the numbers and politely suggest that they renegotiate the deal, because there is no profit for the wholesale buyer. They dismiss me without even looking at the numbers. If I get a few more nonsense deals from an amateur, then I’ll unsubscribe and send their emails to the junk folder.

If you want to operate a professional wholesale business, then there are some specific steps that you must perform with every property:

  1. Run the numbers the correct way. Use my spreadsheet to get it right, and to generate professional mail merge documents. Be sure to start your price negotiations about 10% to 20% lower than your calculated Maximum Allowable Offer (MAO).
  2. Using your professional documents, get a pre-approval letter or proof of funds letter from a private lender or a private equity financier. You will attach that letter to your “all cash” purchase offer to prove that you can close quickly.
  3. Get the property under contract at a price that locks-in profit. I am not saying get greedy, but you must lock-in a profit after all expenses, both hard costs and soft costs. Take the contract to your escrow or title company and open escrow. Let the escrow agent know that you intend to assign the contract or double close with a 3rd party buyer. Show the escrow agent the specific language in the contract that provides for you to assign the contract. If the escrow agent is uncomfortable, then go to another company.
  4. Get a “scope of work” written estimate from each of 3 experienced general contractors (GC). Use the highest estimate to renegotiate the purchase contract and use the lowest estimate to get new bids. Let the winning bidder know that if you buy the property, then they will get the job. If you wholesale the property to a 3rd party who uses his own GC, then you must pay a nominal fee for the report.
  5. Get an “as repaired” appraisal to support your analysis. Be sure the appraiser knows that you want a “30-day sell it now” appraisal. Renegotiate the purchase contract again according to the appraisal. An “as repaired” appraisal will almost always be lower than what you expected.
  6. Present the deal to your list of wholesale buyers in a professional manner. Use my “Wholesale Opportunity” mail merge template, and attach the highest “scope of work” estimate and the “as repaired” appraisal. Now the wholesale buyers have all the information they need to make a rational decision.
  7. Require a 3-day non-refundable deposit that is at least double your earnest money deposit. After 3-days, their deposit becomes non-refundable. They have that much time to review the documents and to inspect the property.
  8. Schedule a meeting at the escrow or title company to complete the assignment so you get paid to assign the contract (or double close). Be sure that your purchase contract fully releases you from all liability upon assignment.

This is not rocket science, but it does require a professional work ethic, proper tools, and proper education and training. Check my Property Analysis Worksheet Short Form product, because it is designed for both wholesalers and rehabbers.

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Decrease Expense or Increase Income?

I just posted an article “Decreasing Spending versus Increasing Income“, which talks about why increasing your passive income is better than decreasing your spending.

Many so-called “personal finance experts” are too focused on decreasing expenses. In general, decreasing “bad spending” is good. I just think that you should focus more on increasing your income by acquiring positive cash flow assets.

A positive cash flow asset is something that puts money into your pocket after all expenses and debt service. A liability is something that takes money from your pocket, and generally depreciates in value. A car is a liability, because it depreciates over time and consumes your money for fuel, maintenance, insurance, and taxes.

Poor and financially illiterate people trade their time and effort for a paycheck from an employer. Retirement funds are first taken from the paycheck, then taxes, then the employee receives whatever is left. Everyone else gets paid first before the employee gets paid.

Wealthy and financially educated people do not work for a paycheck. Instead, they work to build or buy positive cash flow assets that continue to pay them after the work is completed. We all know that wealthy people buy things that depreciate in value, and many folks try incorrectly to emulate the wealthy by buying expensive things, like houses, cars, and boats. They use consumer debt to buy those liabilities and use their paychecks to repay the debt with interest while the liability is decreasing in value faster than the debt is repaid.

Wealthy and financially educated folks will instead…

Go to the article page for more details.

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The Cost of Delaying Benefits

Why is common sense so rare?

I just heard yet another “economics expert” on cable television (a business finance talk show) talking about delaying Social Security benefits to increase the beneficiary’s income. Here are the basic terms:

  1. At retirement age of 62, the basic monthly benefit is X. I’ll throw in a number of $500, but it doesn’t matter because we’re analyzing the difference in present values of a future income stream.
  2. Delaying benefits until retirement age of 70, the basic monthly benefit is Y=1.76×X. That is a 76% higher monthly payment compared to the age 62 benefit. Using my example number of X=$500, I calculate Y=$880.
  3. Benefits stop upon death. It doesn’t matter whether a surviving spouse will continue to receive benefits upon primary recipient’s demise, because that merely changes the finite term of the income stream for either option. There is still the same termination date for the income stream that can be applied for either option.

The so-called expert says that delaying benefits until age 70 is a better deal. Really? Let’s check the numbers:

  1. Assume a life span of 18 years (216 months) remaining at age 62. In this example, the income stream is scheduled for termination at age 80.
  2. Assume an annual discount rate of 6.00% on the future income stream. The rate of inflation will change over the term, but let’s assume it averages out to a hurdle rate of 6.00% annually to simplify the Time Value of Money calculations. A “hurdle rate” is the minimum required yield to overcome the devaluing effects of inflation to achieve a net gain above the inflation rate.
  3. Age 62: 216 monthly payments (18 years) of $500 discounted at annual rate 6.00% calculates a present value of (drum roll please) $65,949.
  4. Age 70: 120 monthly payments (10 years) of $880 discounted at annual rate 6.00% ($79,265), then discounted again for 96 monthly payments of $0 to account for the 8 years of delay between age 62 and age 70 calculates a present value of $49,106. A net loss of $16,843 in present value compared to the Age 62 ($65,949) scenario.

This means effectively that the Age 62 income stream benefit discounted at 6.00% is worth $65,949 in today’s present value dollars, while the Age 70 income stream is worth $49,106 in today’s present value dollars. By the way, I would have to live to Age 97 to break even on these two scenarios. Although I plan to live forever or die trying, I’ll continue this example to see how to improve my fortunes in the event of my untimely demise at Age 80.

Suppose I could borrow the present value today as a lump sum and repay it completely with the income stream guaranteed monthly benefit. Let’s analyze what I could do with that lump sum now.

Which lump sum would I rather have starting at Age 62? Of course, I’ll take the larger lump sum. I could invest the borrowed lump sum as a leveraged equity investment in an income property to generate a double digit yield income stream that’s all profit, because my retirement benefit income stream is already paying for the lump sum debt. Why be satisfied with $500 per month when I could generate $747 per month at 12% yield that all goes into my pocket? Or perhaps a 15% yield for $885 per month starting now at Age 62 instead of waiting until Age 70?

If the beneficiary survives beyond the 18 years and continues to receive retirement benefits, then the lump sum debt is fully paid off and the total income stream dramatically increases by adding together the continued retirement benefit income stream and the income property cash flow. Where else can you get a retirement income stream that grows so dramatically as you get older? Social Security “Cost of Living Adjustments” (COLA) are tiny incremental increases based on the Consumer Price Index (CPI) and the government rigs the numbers to make inflation look smaller than it really is for the sake of keeping down the COLA.

Income property indefinitely generates cash flow, so the income stream will extend to any heirs on a stepped-up tax basis (no capital gains tax to the heirs). Social Security and other “defined benefit” retirement schemes stop upon the demise of the beneficiaries.

I would much rather have the $500 monthly income for 18 years compared to $880 per month for 10 years and I must wait 8 years before receiving that higher income. Also, at age 62 I still have several years of productive contribution to society compared to age 70. (I know that active seniors can live well into their 90′s and beyond. I am just trying to explain my point that cash now versus cash later must be compared relative to a discount rate to calculate the present value.)

This same calculation applies to any deferred income stream, like a pension or annuity, that has multiple-choice start dates. In the above example, a simple “Goal Seek…” on the mark-up rate (76%) calculates over 136% mark-up to break-even. That means the Age 70 monthly benefit must be 136% more than the Age 62 monthly benefit ($1,181) just to break even on the discounted present value.

The so-called expert is financially illiterate or is a lying mouth-piece for the federal government that is trying to reduce the burden on the bankrupt Social Security Ponzi scheme. By misleading seniors into shifting their demand for Social Security benefits far into the future, the government hopes they will (a) die before receiving any benefits, or (b) die soon after receiving a few months of benefits, and while the seniors are alive before receiving benefits those seniors will continue to vote for those politicians who are promising to pay later for those votes with higher future benefits.

Financial literacy is critical for you and your family, as well as for the general prosperity of society. Always question so-called “expert” authority figures and verify their calculations to your own satisfaction. I’ve shown my calculations. If you disagree with me, then I’ll be happy to review your calculations.

Life is too short to get rich slowly!

 

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Risk Spread Premium

Risk Spread Premium

I just read a short article from a real estate guru. He was talking about the “Risk Spread Premium” on real estate Capitalization (CAP) Rates compared to the 10-year US Treasury bond.

His basic assertion is to compare the difference (spread) between the average CAP rate of income properties to the yield on the bond. The greater the spread means the better investment for income properties, because the inverse logic means that it’s safer to invest in bonds compared to real estate when the spread is small. US Treasury bonds are very safe, so why take the risk on income property when the difference in yield is small?

Here are some fallacies in that logic:

  1. I don’t invest in bonds, especially US Treasury bonds, mostly because I don’t like the idea of the US debasing its currency with the printing press. Losing purchasing power through debasement is a bad investment.
  2. Interest rates are at ridiculously low rates, below the rate of actual inflation. That’s never a good time to invest in bonds, especially when combined with debasement. The only direction for interest rates is up, which means declining bond prices. Losing principal value compounds the loss on top of lost purchasing power.
  3. Income property can respond to inflation through higher rents according to what the market can bear. That provides strong management control over your investment compared with no control over bond prices.
  4. The power of leveraging “Other People’s Money” (OPM) for structured financing of income property far outweighs the alleged safety of government bonds.
  5. The capitalization rate is meaningless until it is calculated in the presence of structured financing with debt and equity. Real estate is a “borrowed money” business that provides leverage. The actual CAP rate for an income property is determined from the cost and structure of its financing.
  6. Investors look to the “Cash on Cash Return” (CCR) to determine whether the LEVERAGE on their debt and equity adequately compensates them for their risk. However, most real estate investors don’t know the relationship between CAP, CCR, and the cost and structure of financing. By the way, I call the CCR the “Gross Return on Equity” (ROE), because equity can be acquired in other ways than just cash invested as a down payment.
  7. For the above reasons, there is really no logical comparison between government bond yields and investing in income properties. It’s like comparing apples and oranges. 


Net Operating Income:   NOI     (income minus expense)
Debt Present Value:     DPV     (the original total debt)
Annual Debt Constant:   ADC     (original debt annual cost)
Annual Debt Service:    ADS  =  ADC × DPV
Loan to Value:          LTV     (combined senior tranches)
Equity to Value:        ETV  =  1 – LTV
Leverage to Price:      LTP  =  LTV ÷ ETV
Debt Coverage Ratio:    DCR  =  NOI ÷ ADS
Debt Coverage Margin:   DCM  =  1 ÷ DCR
Cash Flow Margin:       CFM  =  1 – DCM
Gross Return on Equity: ROE  =  (DCR – 1) × ADC × LTP
Debt Coverage Ratio:    DCR  =  1 + (ROE ÷ (ADC × LTP))
Capitalization Rate:    CAP  =  DCR × ADC × LTV
Maximum Allowed Offer:  MAO  =  NOI ÷ CAP = DPV ÷ LTV
Leverage to Yield:      LTY  =  ROE ÷ CAP = CFM ÷ ETV
Cash Flow Before Tax:   CFBT =  ROE × ETV × MAO
Net Operating Income:   NOI  =  CFBT ÷ CFM = MAO × CAP

The CAP rate depends entirely on the DCR, ADC, and LTV, as does the ROE (CCR) rate. The value of income property depends on calculating a capitalization rate on the cash flow relative to the cost and structure of the financing (debt and equity). These values are controllable and manageable, unlike US Treasury bond prices and the US Mint printing press (controlled by the Federal Reserve Bank).

So called “Comparable CAP Rates” are meaningless, because an investor can’t know the cost and structure of the financing applied to the comparable properties, and cannot recreate that financing structure for the subject property. The investor can only know what cost and structure is available for the subject property at the time of purchasing or refinancing that property.

This is why property values fluctuate according to the availability of financing. In general, financing is always available, and the real question is “what is the cost of that financing?” We’ve all seen property prices fall in times of tight liquidity, which means that high cost financing reduces the property value and vice versa. The “mortgage meltdown” was caused by rapid price inflation due to the availability of low cost high leverage financing. Trying to use comparable CAP rates to justify an inflated price is simply looking for a greater fool. Sophisticated investors understand how to use the equations to calculate the correct offer price according to the cost and structure of the financing that is available to that investor.

In my humble opinion, using prudent judgment and skill to invest in income property with proper levels of debt and equity is much safer and produces higher yields compared to government bonds, regardless of the spread in interest rates.

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Income Analysis Summary Tutorial1

I’ve added a short video tutorial about Income Analysis. I sometimes get upset when real estate Guru make mistakes. I take exception to Guru teaching erroneous methods of analysis.

The Guru was basically saying to analyze the income and expense as advertised and then decide whether the property is being offered at a good asking price. Else, just move on the next property.

Well, the asking price is not the wanting price. An asking price always has some padding to allow the seller to negotiate downward. Also, the asking price is irrelevant. The value of an income property is derived from the cost and structure of the available financing.

You can watch video tutorial below, which is hosted on YouTube.com. Be sure to go to the sales page over here to get more details and see more videos on how to get paid to buy income property for other people.

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